I thought I’d share the story of my winter camping trip this winter to Pictured Rocks National Lake Shore. It was quite an adventure for me and it had a real personal impact on me. It’s a long story, so bear with me. This is just the beginning of it! If you like it, let me know, I’ll post more.
I’ll have to add pictures later. I’ve had some computer problems and it’s meant I don’t have access to all of my photos all of the time. They’re not lost, just inconvenient to access. Hope you enjoy the story.
Preparations
This winter, I decided I wanted to try winter camping. I wanted to be able to go anywhere at any time to take photographs. I wanted to be able to stay in remote locations and be there at dawn and dusk for the best photographic light. My goal was to snow shoe in to the Pictured Rocks National Lake Shore and camp there for a few nights while I shot the features along the lake.
I had been winter camping before, more than twenty years ago, and the experiences had been pure misery. I had suffered with cold each night, despite wearing every stitch of clothing I had, inside my sleeping bag. These experiences made me anxious about trying again, but I hoped that with better equipment and preparation, that it would be a more positive experience.
I bought some expedition weight long underwear, some nylon outer wear to shed the snow and keep me dry. I did a test in my back yard, sleeping out in below freezing temperatures and making breakfast in my tent without any problems. I’d actually been quite comfortable. I decided that with my extra clothing, I could handle colder conditions that I anticipated up at Pictured Rocks.
On my way
I looked for a weather window where there would be no heavy snow, and left for Pictured Rocks. I made the seven hour drive, got my permit, and headed for the trail head to Chapel Beach. When I got there, it was late afternoon, and I didn’t have much time to get down the trail and set up camp. I decided I would hike in just an hour or so, and set up camp just before dark. I didn’t want to go too far from the car on this first night. It was going to be much colder, about ten degrees, so I wanted to be sure that my equipment was sufficient before I went too far from the car.
I passed a group of women who were on their way out from a day hike in to Chapel Falls. They said that there was a good place for me to camp there, and that it was about an hour in. They’d packed a nice snow shoe trail, so the going was pretty easy, despite my fifty pounds of camping and photography equipment and the clumsy snow shoes.
I had to hurry, because the sun was setting fast, but I got to the falls just in time to set up camp and cook dinner before dark. I was feeling pretty good. The weather conditions were nice: it was partly sunny, and there was no wind. It was peaceful at the falls, with just the whisper of the falls to lull me to sleep.
I slept alright that first night. I woke up and had to adjust my sleeping bag and clothing a bit during the night to stay warm, but I was fundamentally comfortable enough. I woke up very early, prepared my breakfast and headed out to do a little photography around the falls. It was awkward dealing with the camera and tripod in the deep snow, with the snow shoes on, but everything was going okay. I wasn’t particularly interested in the kind of things I was shooting, but I wanted to practice a bit, and get some documentary shots at the very least.
First Morning
After a few minutes, I realized that I wasn’t feeling very well. I felt a little bit sweaty, slightly nauseous. I wondered if it might be the freeze dried dinner I’d had the night before, but it also occurred to me that I was feeling pretty anxious. There were little alarm bells going off in my gut somewhere. My mind told my gut to calm down, that everything was going just fine. There was no reason to be nervous. My gut wasn’t so sure.
I went back to camp, packed up my gear, and prepared to head down to the lake. It was about a two mile hike, but on snow shoes, I had no idea how long it would take. A light breeze had begun rustling in the trees, it was overcast now, but the weather seemed okay. I started down the trail to the lake. In about a hundred feet, the packed trail that the women had left, ended. There was nothing but two feet of fresh, light snow, untouched by any human track. As I continued down the trail, I quickly discovered how much harder it was to snow shoe in deep, fresh snow. I was working very hard. In fact, I had to stop to gasp for breath about every fifty feet or so. I would pick a target a short distance ahead, trudge up to that target, then double over and breathe heavily for fifteen or twenty seconds, waiting for my heart rate to drop to a reasonable level before continuing down the trail again.
The Hike In
I didn’t go far before those alarm bells began ringing again. This time they were considerably louder. Every part of my body was telling me not to continue down this trail. The woods looked absolutely forbidding. It was a sea of unbroken, uniform gray tree trunks stretching away to the horizon in every direction. There was no sign of any wildlife. No birds, nothing. No one had been down here this winter. It occurred to me that it was probably for a very good reason. It was crazy to exert myself this hard to get down to that beach. If and when I got there, I would be exhausted and very far from my car. I would have to survive the night there no matter what.
I didn’t really consider these thoughts too carefully, to be honest. All I knew was that I was scared out of my wits, but I had been talking about doing this for so long, had been preparing for so long, had made this long drive to get here, and I wasn’t going to turn back now. I had done fine last night, and I could see no reason why I wouldn’t do okay down at the lake tonight. I simply set aside the fear, literally telling myself that fear was only a state of mind, and that I might as well change my attitude, because I was going down to that beach no matter what.
I just kept setting my little fifty yard goals, and plowed ahead through the snow. I was careful to be sure I was following the right trail, conscious that I couldn’t afford to get lost in these woods. I could always retrace my tracks to get out, but I was exerting myself so hard that I couldn’t afford any detours.
An hour down the trail, I was getting pretty tired. I’d been doing the equivalent of a stair master workout with a fifty pound backpack for a solid hour. It was way more than I was accustomed to doing. I was sweating freely, though I was trying not to get too wet, for fear of hypothermia when I stopped. In the distance, I was surprised to see a set of snow shoe tracks. It was a single set of tracks. One person had come up the trail from the lake, then turned around and gone back down. I was glad to see evidence of other people in here, and even the single set of footprints made the walking much easier. I could now walk continuously, without stopping to catch my breath.
I kept slogging down the trail, looking for some evidence of the lake. I was looking to see an end to the trees, but there was none. After another half hour or more, I began to see some rock formations through the trees in the distance. I thought that must be the lake shore. The trail turned so that it seemed to parallel the shoreline, and kept going. Finally, about two hours from my first camp, I came to some steep drops and I could see the end of the woods ahead. I was pretty well exhausted by this time, getting clumsy with fatigue, flailing around on my snowshoes as I made my way down a couple of steep drops to the lake.
By now, the wind had picked up pretty sharply. When I reached the lake shore at the famous Chapel Rocks, the wind was ripping across the lake and into the trees. The snow was scoured into ridges where it was exposed to the wind. I shielded my face, and turned along the lake to look for the campground. I crossed a bridge over a frozen river, and came to the campground a hundred yards or so later. There were snow shoe tracks along the lake shore, but no one had gone into the camp ground. I plowed through deep snow, clambering over a large tree that had fallen across the trail as I went. I turned into the first camp site that I came to. It looked just fine to me. I’m sure that in summer it was a lovely site, backing up on the river on the far side It had a big pine tree that offered shelter from the cutting wind. I decided to look no further.
